The Jewellery Trail

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Mourning Brooch

This strange looking brooch is an example of mourning jewellery. This commemorated a dead partner or relative. It has been worn in one form or another since the middle ages, and first became a popular custom during the 1400s. Originally the jewellery was made of black or white enamel and incorporated some rather gruesome motifs such as skulls, coffins and gravestones. However, later forms were more graceful.

During the Victorian period, mourning jewellery was very popular. For example, Queen Victoria insisted that all members of the royal household wear mourning jewellery after the death of her husband, Prince Albert. The hair in this brooch comes from the deceased. It was woven into a complex design, often by the bereaved, as this was seen as an appropriate act of mourning for the dead person. The plaited hair was placed beneath a panel of glass or crystal and worn as a symbol of grief. Traditionally mourning was observed by a widow for a year and a day following the death of her husband, and sometimes a period of ‘half mourning’ followed for another 9 months.

Cameo Brooch

This is a cameo brooch - the design is carved in relief, which means that it stands out from the surface. Cameos were made from a variety of materials that could be easily carved, including stone, coral, lava and sometimes ivory. However, the most common material was shell. The shells of large tropical shellfish such as conches were often used, because they were easily carved and contained many layers of different colours. Cameos were a very popular form of jewellery during the 18th and 19th centuries, and were generally worn by women. They featured a variety of different images - classical images such as Greek and Roman gods were a popular subject.

During the 19th century a growing fashion for portraits meant that cameos often depicted female figures. Richer women could afford to have their own likeness carved, but cheaper cameos depicting ‘idealised’ women soon became popular with the less well off. The industrialization that occurred during the Victorian era meant that cameos, which were traditionally carved by hand, could be mass-produced using moulds. Techniques were developed to create reproductions of classic designs using cheaper materials like bakelite and glass. During the 20th century cameos became less popular, although they are still produced today.

Posy Holder

This object is an ornate posy holder. A posy was a small bouquet of flowers that was also sometimes called a ‘tussy mussy’. They were once very fashionable, particularly during the Victorian era when carrying flowers was considered to be more acceptable for young women than wearing jewellery. Affluent Victorian women were encouraged to learn the ‘language’ of flowers, a code in which each type of flower was given a different symbolic meaning. In this way a bouquet of flowers could convey a message. For example, a red rose indicated love, whilst a yellow rose meant friendship and lavender represented devotion. The tussy mussy was therefore a very important part of a woman’s wardrobe. Women would attend social events carrying a carefully arranged bouquet in an ornate holder, and in this way they could convey their intentions. Posy holders were often very decorative, and came in a variety of different styles. Some were worn in the hair whilst others were worn at the waist or pushed into the low neckline of a dress - known as a ‘bosom bottle’.

‘Target’ Ring

Sixties fashion reflected the mood of the period. Things were changing, and styles became much less conservative. New technology provided people with a variety of new materials, and the advent of the space age had a big impact on their view of the world. People looked to the future and embraced modernity, and this was reflected in their clothing and jewellery.

Whilst the fashion trends of the 1950’s persisted for the first few years of the decade, newer styles became a more popular choice as time went on. Diamonds remained popular with the older generation, whilst younger people preferred jewellery made from new synthetic materials, often in neon colours. Popular designs included abstract patterns, leaves, flowers and stars. Jewellers were also influenced by the artistic movements of the decade, and produced Pop art and Op Art influenced designs. This ‘target’ ring is typical of 1960’s style, both in its use of plastic, an inexpensive synthetic material, and in its bold and simple design of concentric black and white circles.

Tiara

The tiara first became popular as jewellery in the court of the emperor Napoleon. The women of the imperial court wore very elaborate jewellery to show their wealth and status, including tiaras, earrings and necklaces. Tiaras have remained popular ever since, and are still associated with wealthy, aristocratic people. Modern tiaras are made in several styles, but the most familiar is the simple circlet or diadem, like this one.

During the Victorian era, tiaras were often bought for a woman by her father or fiancé when she was about to be married. The choice of design, often depicting flowers or leaves, and the precious stones used in the tiara were both important. Like flowers, precious stones had meanings. For example, diamonds represent eternity, so a diamond tiara would perhaps indicate the fiancé’s undying love.